Written by Dr. Susan Friedman, Utah State University
(Susan has taught me and thousands of others around the world about applied behavioral analysis, how it can strengthen our relationship with our pets, and how it can open the floodgates for learning among all living creatures.)
To improve our ability to understand and influence our parrots’ behavior, we need a systematic approach which provides an organized framework and simplifies the seeming complexity that threatens to obscure our view.
As Simple as ABC
One such approach to understanding specific behaviors is known as ABC analysis. The letters stand for the three elements of a simplified behavioral “equation” which includes the antecedents, behavior, and consequences. With this strategy, we seek to identify through careful observation the events and conditions that occur before the target behavior − antecedents, as well as identifying the results that follow the behavior - consequences. This simple analysis, when paired with keen observation skills and creative problem-solving, will help us clarify the way in which the basic components of behavior are interrelated. It is this clarity that leads us to important insights and teaching strategies.
How To
There are six steps to analyzing the ABCs: (1) describe the target behavior in clear, observable terms; (2) describe the antecedent events that occur and conditions that exist immediately before the behavior happens; (3) describe the consequences that immediately follow the behavior; (4) examine the antecedents, the behavior and the consequence in sequence; (5) devise new antecedents and/or consequences to teach new behaviors or change existing ones; (6) evaluate the outcome.
Let’s look at one example: Veda, my otherwise charming Alexandrine Parakeet bites fast and forcefully when I ask her to step onto my hand from inside her cage. Seeing the problem in isolation and decked-out in its full complexity, we might hypothesize that she is aggressive, territorial, hormonal, defensive, or dominating. Alternatively, she could be recalcitrant, stubborn, uncooperative or simply a stinker who is also spoiled rotten! Any one, or all, of these hypotheses might be accurate, but in terms of problem-solving, they serve only to label the behavior, not resolve it. And, since they do not describe observable behaviors per se, one can never really be sure about the accuracy of the label.
The ABC Analysis
What follows is my analysis of Veda’s biting behavior using the ABC approach: First, the background and setting: When asked to step onto my hand from inside her cage, Veda often, but not always, bites me! She does not bite under any other circumstance or in any other situation. She does it any time of day and with all her family members. However, once out of her cage, Veda steps up and down without hesitation, from all locations, including the top of her cage. For three or four hours each day, Veda plays happily on her tree perch in the family room, enjoys cuddles, and generally relaxes by preening, playing with toys and nibbling. She is by all other measures an outstanding companion bird.
Step 1: Describe the behavior in observable terms.
Veda widens her eyes, tightens her grip on her perch, pulls her body back and waits in this position for a second or two. If I don’t move my hand she bites it hard.
Step 2: Describe the antecedents.
Any time I walk up to Veda’s cage, I greet her to let her know I’m there. I open her cage door, slowly put my hand in front of her and say, “Step up, Veda.”
Step 3: Describe the consequences.
I remove my bitten hand (hurt and annoyed), and Veda stays in her cage. Case, or should I say door, closed.
Step 4: Examine the antecedents, the behavior, and the consequences in sequence.
Any time I walk up to Veda’s cage, I greet her to let her know I’m there; I open her cage door, slowly put my hand in front of her and say, “Step up, Veda.” Veda widens her eyes, tightens her grip on her perch, pulls her body back and waits in this position for a second or two. If I don’t move my hand, she bites it hard. I remove my bitten hand (hurt and annoyed), and Veda stays in her cage.
Let’s stop here for a minute to examine the insights that resulted from this analysis, as it helped me clarify several important things. First, far from being a biter or having a biting problem in any chronic or generalized sense, I learned that Veda displays a very specific set of responses, in a specific location with a different antecedent than I had originally assumed. Before analyzing the ABCs of Veda’s biting behavior, I had not realized that she tenses her body, pulls away from her perch and widens her eyes in a valiant attempt to warn me to withdraw. How remarkable!
In this light, it becomes so clear that the critical antecedent to her biting is not my putting my hand in her cage; it’s ignoring her non-aggressive communication, requesting me to remove it. Only when I ignore her communication and persist does she resort to biting. So, who set the silver balls in motion this time, Veda or me?
It is also evident that by withdrawing my hand and leaving her in her cage, I was in fact, reinforcing the biting. With each of these interactions, I was unwittingly, but explicitly, teaching Veda that biting is an effective and necessary way to get my hand out of her cage; apparently so, since warning me non-aggressively did not work. I’m sure she would say it was nothing personal but that I was quite … dense! Can’t you just hear her explaining this to our baby cockatoo? “Listen up, baby. No matter how kind and gentle you want to be, these humans respond to one thing and one thing only, aggression. Why, it’s a jungle in here!”
Step 5: Devise new antecedents and/or consequences.
After careful consideration of my options, in this case I chose to change the antecedents to decrease Veda’s biting. First, I no longer say, “Step up!” when I want her to come out of her cage. Instead I ask her, “Wanna step up?” If she displays the warning behaviors, I take that as an unqualified “No, but thanks for asking!” and I calmly remove my hand from her cage. I then leave her cage door open, allowing her to exit how and when she chooses. As an additional strategy, I trained her to step onto a perching stick for those rare times when staying in her cage is not an option. We practice stepping onto the stick a few times a week, for which she earns an avalanche of praise and kisses.
Step 6: Evaluate the outcome.
Changing the antecedents to decrease Veda’s biting has been a huge success. Of course it is not surprising that she no longer bites me – by heeding her warnings, I don’t give her the opportunity, or the reason, to do so. I continue to present my hand to her and ask if she wants to step up. If she tenses her stance, pulls away and/or widens her eyes I remove my hand and go on to other things (you know, like cleaning cages and changing water bowls, uh-huh).
What has been very unexpected is that after a few months of letting her decide how to come out of her cage, she now rarely declines my offer to take her out on my hand, choosing instead to step up nicely and hitch a ride! Who knows … maybe the freedom of choice was important to her or she benefited from more control over her own destiny; perhaps her trust level increased when I lowered my apparent dominance. These are all very interesting possibilities.
Closing Thoughts
In my opinion, we generally focus too much on consequences to influence behavior. This is especially true of negative behaviors that we want to decrease or eliminate. In this way, we limit ourselves to rewarding or punishing more or less. One of the exciting benefits of this simple analysis strategy is that it fosters careful consideration of the antecedents, that is, the things we do to promote … or provoke … behavior. Antecedents should be brilliantly arranged to ensure that the appropriate behavior is facilitated. Doing so makes selecting consequences easy – when the behaviors are all acceptable, the consequences are all positive! I truly believe (and my experience working children bears this out) behind every negative behavior is a poorly arranged antecedent.
There is certainly more than one way to productively analyze a behavior sequence and more than one useful solution to be devised. The right analysis and solution is the one that produces the desired outcome, fits the style in which you and your bird are comfortable interacting and improves your relationship with your bird. With Veda, all three criteria were met. In our teaching, we are limited only by our powers of observation, our creativity and our resolve to treat our parrots humanely and with compassion.
This original version of this article is reprinted with permission from the TGPC Internet Conference, December 2000.
Monday, May 25, 2009
Understanding Behavior Is As Simple As ABC
Monday, May 18, 2009
Sometimes animals amaze me
Originally uploaded by goodthingslisa
What a sweet video. This was emailed to me and I wanted to share.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Don't Blame Your Pet
Too often when pets don’t behave how we want them to, we blame the pets. We assume they know what we want and they’re doing it to be obstinate or jealous or domineering. “My dog was mad at me for leaving him.” “My bird was jealous of my boyfriend.” “My bird was trying to show me who is boss.” The list goes on and on.
What Dr. Susan Friedman and other animal behaviorists/trainers who use positive methods teach is that, rather than blaming the animal, the better and more productive way of looking at it is as a lack of skill – a learning opportunity. Think about it, animals don’t sit around plotting how to get even or misbehave. They’re doing what they’re doing because they’ve learned what they’re doing gets them positive results (or at least positive to them). Their behavior is serving them a purpose.
Truth is, we don’t really know what our pets’ are thinking or feeling anyway. I may think that my bird is mad or jealous, but how could I possibly know for sure. Heck I have a hard enough time trying to figure out men. The only thing I know with certainty is that the animal is behaving, and that behavior is occurring because it is being reinforced.
What we, as their caretakers and therefore trainers, need to realize is that we can very effectively empower our pets to make decisions and modify their behavior in a way that will lead to their success while also improving their quality of life.
One of the first steps is to stop thinking about problem behaviors in terms of just removing them, but instead focus on what purpose those behaviors serve to the animal. Could it be that your bird bit your hand because you persisted to force him to step up, even after he tried to communicate first by dilating his eyes and leaning away – and biting was the one action that caused you to back off? Could it be your dog chewed up your favorite sock because it caused you to give him attention?
Your pet can’t really be accountable for its unacceptable behaviors if YOU or something else in the environment gave those behaviors purpose, now can it? Wow, that’s something to think about.
So, what would happen if, instead of punishing your dog for chewing your sock, you instead modified the environment. You could be diligent about keeping your socks out of reach while teaching him to chew on a rawhide. By praising him profusely each and every time he has the rawhide in his mouth, you are teaching him that he can earn the same – even better – reward for doing something you *want* him to do. Then you can catch him doing something else you approve of, and you can praise that. And so on.
When he does something you don’t approve of, you simply don’t react. You remove all value from the unacceptable behavior while at the same time, give the acceptable behavior lots and lots of value. You’ve made it easy for him to make the *right* decision. Which option do you think he’ll choose?
Applied behavior Analysis is the process of solving practical behavior problems by changing the environment. It involves focusing tightly on the specific behavior you want to modify, and then looking at it in the context of its surroundings. What is giving that behavior purpose? What happened immediately prior to the behavior (antecedent) to set the wheels turning? What happened *immediately* after the behavior to reinforce it (consequence)?
When you look at the behavior in this way, you can begin to think about what needs to change in order to teach your pet what you want it to do. Positive reinforcement is all about arranging very motivating consequences to a behavior that are meaningful to the animal, while making sure you don’t inadvertently reward the wrong behavior. And one of the great perks to this kind of teaching strategy is that you’ll also notice your relationship with your pet grow as it associates you with that reward.
NOTE: Content for this post came from one of my past Pet Pals columns for Hyde Park Living
Thursday, April 30, 2009
A Great Example of How Positive Reinforcement Works
This is Steve Martin of Orlando based Natural Encounters. Steve is an incredible trainer and teacher. Here you can see how quickly the African Grey learns the foot scratching behavior because she is so eager for the treat, which is positive reinforcement.
Saturday, April 25, 2009
When Your Puppy Has Something In His Mouth That Shouldn't Be There...
Through my studies, I’ve had the fortune to study from some well respected trainers and behaviorists who use positive reinforcement strategies to affect behavior modification in animals. Barbara Heidenreich is one of them. She is an animal trainer who consults with zoos and other animal related facilities around the world. She is also past president of the International Association of Avian Trainers and Educators (IAATE).
(When Barbara was in town for the IAATE
conference, I brought her in to Dr. Gary
Clemons 55KRC program to answer questions
from listeners.)
In her Fall 2008 Good Bird Magazine, Barbara shared with readers how she solved an age old dilemma for people with animals – what do you do when your dog or bird or cat has something in his mouth that he shouldn’t have?
Here is an excerpt from her article:
Puppies are notorious for chewing up all sorts of contraband. Despite my best efforts to keep all items I did not want chewed up from the floor, I knew there would be moments when my favorite shoes might end up in my puppy’s mouth. I decided to teach a strong ‘drop’ behavior.
To do this, I armed myself with Waylon’s absolute favorite treats hidden in my fist. I offered Waylon an acceptable chew toy such as a stuffed animal. As he was chewing, I place my closed fist full of treats next to the toy, when he would stop chewing and smell my closed fist, I bridged (said the word ‘good’) and opened my fist so that he could get a treat. This was repeated several times, until the presentation of my fist would quickly cause him to drop what was in his mouth. I then added a verbal cue as well. I chose the oh, so clever, word ‘drop’.
My next step was to raise the bar a bit. I offered Waylon something he enjoys more than a stuffed toy, his squeaky ball. This was followed by even more enticing items, including a bone. Every time Waylon dropped the item he received a treat, or in some cases I simply offered back the item he had dropped, or another fun chewable item. When the day came when he found a shoe, I walked up to Waylon as I would under any circumstances. This meant no chasing, yelling or shrieks that my shoe was in his mouth. I calmly gave him the drop cue and the shoe left his mouth unscathed and hit the floor. I also did not have a treat in my hand, which was not a problem. My goal had always been that the treat would be phased out from being hidden in the hand. This time I gave him lots of praise and attention, which worked fine as a reinforcer. Now I regularly reinforce with all sorts of things…a treat, giving back the item he dropped, attention, another acceptable chew toy, etc. I so enjoy that he will drop even the smallest item when cued. And he does it eagerly knowing something else he enjoys is sure to follow.
For more about Barbara, please visit her web site at: www.goodbirdinc.com
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Is Your Garden Pet Safe?
I don’t know about you but I love gardening. I’ve got a huge one in my backyard and all the wild animals love to romp and rest there. But if I had an outdoor pet like a dog or cat, I’d have to be real careful. A number of my favorite plants made it to the toxic list.
So, I thought I’d post a list I found online of plants you should be cautious of around your pet.
Toxic Plants
The springtime plants that can result in gastrointestinal upset in dogs and cats include:
Amaryllis Caladium Tulip
Ferns Calla lily
Hyacinth Iris
Iris
Plants that are considered very toxic and can result in severe illness or even death:
Crocus Azalea Rhododendrom
Easter lily Tiger Lily Bittersweet
Clematis Daffodil Day lily
Foxglove Lily of the valley Narcissus
Morning Glory Death Camas
If you suspect your pet may have chomped on one of your plants, try to determine how much he actually ingested, and from what part of the plan. (The entire plant isn’t always toxic.) Then make sure to take a sample with you to the veterinarian. Of course prevention is always the best solution.
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Absolutely Adorable
Patient-Cat
Originally uploaded by goodthingslisa
No, these aren't my pets. My cousin shared the video with me. It was shared with her and she doesn't know where it originated. But it's definitely not photoshop, and it's way to cute to not pass on.









